Central-East Java: The Secret of Ratu Boko

Despite not as popular as other temples across Prambanan plain, I purchased a Prambanan-Boko package ticket for USD20 to visit Ratu Boko. The package entitled me to visit Prambanan temple object, Ratu Boko temple object, free transport to Boko and free audio visual.     

Ratu Boko is situated about 3 km south of Prambanan Temple Complex and 200 meters above sea level. The uphill route requires you to engage in a suitable transportation, walking there is definitely the least attractive option. With Prambanan-Boko package ticket, a van is use to transport you to Ratu Boko and back to Prambanan at agreed time. 

Arriving at Ratu Boko, rain started pouring down forcing myself to pull out my raincoat and styling it while visiting the area.

There's so little story I heard about Ratu Boko except the panoramic view of Prambanan Temple with Mount Merapi as a background ones able to see at small pavilion near the entrance. So, I decided to check the pavilion first before proceeding to other place.

Being on a high land looking down at a low land creates a superior feeling but you simultaneously dwarfed by the breathtakingly beautiful scenery created by Him. It's epic! This picture would be perfect on a bright sunny day where clouds don't hide the majestic Mount Merapi. Nevertheless, it was still beautiful. It's also a perfect place to admire sunset in Yogyakarta!

If you're not amaze by photo above, what about this? Didn't I tell you how amazing the scenery on a perfect day?

The site of 16 hectares is full of mystery. Unlike Prambanan and Sewu, Ratu Boko is not a remains of temple but of palace - known to modern Javanese as Kraton Ratu Boko. It is clearly seen from remnants of fortified walls and dry moat as defensive structure found in the complex. Settlement site, audience hall, women's quarter, crematorium and bathing place in the vicinity also evidence this place was not use for religion purposes. However, the precise function is still unknown. 

This massive site possess three terraces with each terrace is separated by a stone gateway. The largest gateway having 5 doors separating the second terrace and the third terrace where many archeological remains found.

Paseban (reception pavilion) - a waiting room for guests who want to meet the king. Only the base stone is still remain since the pillars, walls and roof were made from wood had decayed.  

Pendopo (audience hall) - a square enclosure with stone wall surrounding it.

  

Inside, there's a stone base formed by two separated terraces.

As the rain getting heavier, I didn't want to take the risk proceeding to the next object and get stranded somewhere inside this complex when I already made a promise to the van driver to return in 1 hour. To cover the whole Ratu Boko complex site, you'll simply need 2 hours as it's huge and the location of one archaeological site to another is quite a distance.

And each get separated by lush green nature.

It was so serene and peaceful like you're in kampung.

And I secretly believe that some place in this site still regard as sacred by some people and some ritual is still practiced. What would come to your mind when you passed by a beautiful lady in a complete traditional Javanese attire walking gracefully barefoot with her hand in dance position? 


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Central-East Java: Sewu Temple

As expected, my trip in Jogja involved a lot of temple visiting, I mean not visiting for praying, but more to fathom history of ancient people and their civilization that they left us to witness so we could instill the good one to our life. And it is no surprise to know some of our behaviour/act today is influenced by them.

After spending some time in Prambanan Temple, I proceeded to other temples less enormous but still have remarkable built and history.

Sewu Temple, still located within the Prambanan temple complex is 800 meters away from Prambanan temple. And contrary to Prambanan, Sewu Temple is a Buddhist temple - and in fact it's the second largest Buddhist temple in Central Java after Borobodur.  

The little walking I did to Sewu was worth it. I was stunned by its amazing structure when it first came into sight although I know nothing about architecture nor building. I appreciated it as a piece of history from the eyes of a commoner.

Walking into Sewu temple compound was like entering into another world. That's how I felt, seriously. Once you crossed the main entrance with twin Dvarapala statues guarded on both sides that separated the temple compound from the now world, you got the ancient-world feeling. The compound was completely quiet and colour of andesite that made the structure gave a laid back mood.

With lesser people visiting this place than Prambanan, I had the whole temple to myself to admire, imagining how life was like and how religious ceremonies were conducted before. 

Sewu Temple was established by Rakai Pikatan, Sanjaya (Hindu) Dynasty prince whom married Buddhist princess, Pramodhawardhani of Sailendra Dynasty. It is easy to notice both Hindu and Buddha elements were found in Sewu design - high towering spire from Hindu and stupas at its crests from Buddha.

The proximity to Prambanan Temple also suggest that Hindus and Buddhist lived harmoniously in that area.

Originally the complex consisted of main temple in the centre and 240 small temples surrounded it. After an earthquake in 2006, many temples were severely damaged and now the main temple is reinforced with support to prevent it from collapsing. The rest are still in the restoration process.

In Javanese, 'Sewu' translates to 'a thousand temples' which relates with Loro Jonggrang legend in Prambanan Temple. There is another remnant of history found nearby that linked to both Prambanan and Sewu Temple - Ratu Boko. So, with my combine ticket I was eligible to visit it with free transport.

Next, I'll put up an entry about Ratu Boko - another great site you shall not miss in Yogyakarta. How do you like Yogyakarta so far?



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Central-East Java: Prambanan Temple

When in Jogja, YOU wouldn’t want to miss this place – Prambanan Temple. Opss, I mean, I wouldn’t want to miss this place as it is one of UNESCO World Heritage Site! Located about 15km north-east of Jogja and just 8km from Adi Sutjipto Yogyakarta, it is the best place to visit right after you have landed. TransJogja bus from airport brings you directly to near the site and after a 500m walk (or becak ride), you’ll find yourself at the entrance. There’s a luggage storage room, so don’t worry having to carry your bag throughout the temple spotting.

Having heard the legend of Prambanan had connection with Ratu Boko, I bought the Prambanan-Ratu Boko Package for USD20 which entitle me to visit both temple objects with free transportation. It is definitely not cheap for frugal traveler like me but witnessing myself the buildings with massive history behind it was priceless.

Legend had it Prambanan is also called Loro Jonggrang (it means Slender Virgin) after the local name of Durga, a statue stands in the north chamber of Shiva Temple. The statue believed to be a petrified body of Loro Jonggrang, a princess of King Ratu Boko. Prince Bandung Bandowoso was in love with Loro Jonggrang and asked to marry her from the king. However the king answered he could have his princess only if he could kill him in a battle which Bandung Bandowoso did eventually. To refuse the love of a man who killed his father, Loro Jonggrang gave an impossible task as a condition to Prince Bandung Bandowoso – build a temple with 1000 statues in one night! With the help of spirits and supernatural labourers called by Bandung Bandowoso, the quest was almost fulfilled. To fail him, Loro Jonggrang asked the villagers to pound rice and to set a fire mocking the arrival of dawn that caused all spirits to run away from their work, leaving only 999 statues completed. Feeling cheated, Bandung Bandowoso curse Loro Jonggrang to be the 1000^th statue.

However, this temple complex which was built during 9^th century was a symbol of grandeur of Hindu kingdom during Sanjaya Dynasty and in response to the construction of Borobodur, Buddhist temple during Sailendra Dynasty. It has three main temples namely Vishnu, Brahma and Shiva as a symbol of Trimutri in Hindu belief. Each of these temples has accompanying small temple dedicated for its animal vehicle – Swan (Vishnu), Eagle (Brahma) and Bull (Shiva). Shiva temple being the most significant one, stood 47 meter in the middle of the complex has 4 statues inside it – Shiva, Durga (Shiva’s wife and also Loro Jonggrang as legend above), Agastya (Shiva’s teacher) and Ganesha (Shiva’s son) while Vishnu and Brahma only has one statue of them inside.

Prambanan’s panels of relief describe the story of Ramayana. Read more on Ramayana here. On every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, there is Ramayana ballet performance at the Outdoor Theater Taman Wisata Candi Prambanan which I missed L

After knowing all the history of Prambanan, you might think how it got its name while none of the names mentioned Prambanan right? Well, it got its name from the village the temple stood – Para Brahman which with Javanese corrupted pronunciation turned it into Prambanan.   

Prambanan definitely deserves the selection as UNESCO World Heritage Site for its criteria in masterpiece of human creative genius and as an outstanding example of type of building, architectural or technological ensemble or landscape which illustrate significant stages of human history.

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